If we’re looking at Bvlgari and Shangri-La through the lens of someone who actually knows what a good burger and a proper tray of loaded fries should look like, the last month of “Spring Menus” feels like a distraction.
The Bvlgari: The “Truffle” Safety Net
Niko Romito is a legend, and his new spring menu at Il Ristorante is all about “purity.” But let’s be real purity doesn’t fill the void when you’re craving a heavy-hitter. The Wagyu Beef Burger is the mainstay. I hear it’s about $50, and it’s M7 Wagyu. Technically “perfect,” but is it exciting? The Fries: They serve them with truffle oil. That’s the red flag. In the “Pinkies Down” world, luxury is about the quality of the potato and the crunch of the fry, not burying it in an aroma that’s been used to justify every overpriced side dish since 2015. Romito’s “Spring Menu” focused on Linguine with Wagyu sauce (basically a high-end Bolognese) instead of giving us a burger that actually takes a risk? Where’s the house-made ferment? Where’s the heat?
The Shangri-La: The “Jade 36” Identity Crisis
Olivier Pistre is doing incredible things with Tiger Prawns in 3 Ways, but he’s missing the mark on the “monster” energy we want in a bar snack. The Bread Flex: They make their own butter and bread in-house. It’s impressive. But then you look at the Gourmet Beef Burger, and it feels like it’s just… there. It’s a safety net for people who aren’t ready for the “Sea Urchin and Scallop” vibe of the rest of the menu. For a kitchen that can manage “beetroot butter,” the lack of a Loaded Fry option is a missed opportunity. If you can do a prawn three ways, why can’t you do a potato three ways? Give us some brisket, some local spice, something that actually feels like a chef made it, not just a line cook following a manual.
The Verdict: Who Actually Cooked?
Honestly? Neither. They’re both playing it safe.
They’ve both used the April Michelin 2026 release to lean back into their accolades rather than pushing forward. Romito is being clinical, and Pistre is being poetic, but neither of them is giving us that “monster” energy the kind of aggressive, reckless culinary “dive” that makes a dish a masterpiece.
