As the collections for 2026 have unfolded, a certain quiet sobriety seems to have taken center stage. The runways, dominated by a palette of blacks, whites, and muted tones, have been chic, wearable, and undoubtedly elegant. But for those of us who look to Fashion Week not just for clothes, but for a jolt of pure, unadulterated inspiration, it’s hard not to feel a pang of nostalgia for a time, not so long ago, when the runways were a canvas for the wildly creative, the joyfully fun, and the breathtakingly bold.
Let’s take a look back at five moments from the past few years when fashion took a leap, reminding us that at its best, it’s an art form meant to make us dream.
2020: Marc Jacobs’ Joyful Chaos Before the world went into lockdown, Marc Jacobs gave New York a burst of life with his Fall/Winter 2020 show. Instead of a silent, single-file procession, Jacobs unleashed a dynamic, choreographed whirlwind. Models and dancers, guided by the legendary Karole Armitage, moved through the space with an energy that was infectious. It was a celebration of individuality and expression, a reminder that fashion can be a performance of pure joy.
2021: Schiaparelli’s Surrealist Breath of Life In a moment of pure poetry, Schiaparelli’s Fall/Winter 2021 Haute Couture collection gave us the unforgettable gilded lung necklace. Worn by Bella Hadid, the piece was both a stunning accessory and a breathtaking work of art, a surrealist nod to the very act of breathing. It was a bold, beautiful statement that transcended clothing to become a cultural touchstone, proving that inspiration can be found in the most vital and visceral parts of our existence.
2022: Coperni’s Technological Magic Perhaps one of the most talked-about moments in recent memory, Coperni’s Spring/Summer 2023 show felt like something from the future. A nearly-nude Bella Hadid stepped onto the runway, where technicians spray-painted a dress directly onto her body. The gasp from the audience was collective as a seamless, elegant white dress materialized from liquid mist. It was a stunning fusion of science and style, a genuine leap that showed us not just a new dress, but a whole new way of thinking about how fashion is made.
2023: Schiaparelli’s Dante-Inspired Bestiary Never one to shy away from the provocative, Schiaparelli delivered a collection that had the whole world talking. Inspired by Dante’s Inferno, the Haute Couture show featured gowns adorned with incredibly realistic, hand-sculpted faux-taxidermy animal heads. A lion, a wolf, and a snow leopard emerged on the runway, blurring the lines between fashion, sculpture, and natural history. It was bold, it was controversial, and it was a powerful reminder that fashion’s role is to challenge and inspire conversation.
2024: Maison Margiela’s Moonlit Phantoms John Galliano’s Artisanal show for Maison Margiela was a masterclass in theatricality. Staged under the Pont Alexandre III in Paris, the show transported its audience to a moonlit, noir-ish fantasy world. With exaggerated silhouettes, cinched waists, and doll-like makeup, the models moved like beautiful phantoms through the misty night. It was more than a collection; it was an immersive story, a testament to the power of fashion to create a universe of its own.
These moments were more than just viral hits; they were declarations of intent. They championed creativity, embraced the spectacle, and pushed the boundaries of what a fashion show could be. While the refined elegance of 2026 has its own appeal, these recent memories serve as a vibrant and vital reminder of what happens when fashion decides to take a spectacular leap
